Life In-Between

Reflecting on What I Learned Abroad

It’s been three months since I returned from my trip, but it feels like a lifetime ago! It’s hard to believe I spent an entire 5 months abroad. It feels like a blur. Many of my friends compared my trip to the movie “Eat, Pray, Love” starring Julia Roberts who goes on a solo trip around the world to “find herself” and has several life revelations. My trip wasn’t like that at all. My lessons were much more subtle. I didn’t have an earth-shattering realization that I am worthy of the love I’d been denying myself or have a whirlwind romance with a charming Kiwi man. None of that happened. I DID learn to be more patient – with myself and others – and to relinquish control. So many things went awry on my trip and I soon learned it was futile to try to control them. As soon as I gave up and went with the flow, life got easier. I’ve tried to incorporate that lesson into my daily life.

Another important lesson I still implement daily is to embrace routine. I used to HATE being bored. I’d suffer through my work week and try to fit as many activities into my weekend as possible. If friends cancelled or events fell through, I’d be crushed. There was nothing that made me feel more pathetic than sitting at home alone on a weekend night. I always thought being active was an attractive quality, but I was TOO active, and it certainly was a point of tension between me and my ex-boyfriend. He enjoyed “mutual productivity” time during which we would be physically in the same room, but quietly working on separate projects. He also loved quiet movie nights at home. I was the opposite. I would ask, “What’s the point of being together if we aren’t even talking or hanging out?” Oh, how wrong I was in retrospect!

I now try to embrace the slow moments in life. I wake up a little bit earlier than required so I can sip coffee and journal. I patiently wait at red lights, observing the world around me, instead of gripping the wheel like a maniac and urging the light to change. If I have a weekend night with no plans, I relax. I make myself a nice dinner and watch a show that makes me happy. So often I am rushing from the gym to work to social obligations – I never have the chance to just… chill. It’s not glamorous or exciting, but I feel like a much more mellow person. I now see the beauty in spending time watching a movie with someone you love. Not every moment has to be filled with voice and noise.

A New Chapter in Portland

My original plan was to take it slow. I wanted to spend a bit of time enjoying unemployment and having free time to do summer activities with friends. I never planned to jump into a new job, but it fell into my lap.

Before leaving on my trip, I had introduced myself to the owner of a paleo meal prep company in Portland. She invited me in for an interview, but I had to postpone due to my trip. A week after returning, I saw she had posted a new kitchen position. If I waited until I was “ready,” I feared it would already be filled, so I applied. She remembered me and invited me in for two interviews. They both went well and I was offered the job. My dream job! I could finally work in a kitchen making food I felt passionately about. No dairy, grains, or sugar! The only downside was that I had to sacrifice pay, an odd work week (Friday through Tuesday), commute (an hour in traffic!!!), and lack of health benefits, but I figured those would change with time. I was told I’d be working half of my hours at the retail location near my apartment. I was also told there’d be a raise at my 60-day review and the possibility of them offering benefits, but those were minor details. It felt like my life was finally falling into place. I was following my passion!

I loved the first few weeks. There was definitely a steep learning curve. I have never worked in a professional kitchen before. I usually don’t peel my vegetables before I cook them. I’ve certainly never made meatballs with Cream of Tartar! But I loved soaking up the knowledge. I wasn’t afraid to ask questions. There were two other newbies who also lacked kitchen experience. I made fast friends with one of them, but she only worked part-time, so I rarely saw her.


Even though the menu changed each week, I wasn’t actually doing the cooking. I was doing the prep work. So each week, I’d peel carrots, chop zucchini, and julienne onions. Then, I’d spend an two hours rolling meatballs by hand. On good days, I’d get assigned to follow a recipe and make paleo muffins or cupcakes (like above!), but that was rare. This monotonous work was tolerable, but what pushed me to reconsider my new job was the lack of direction. There were no procedures or organization in place. Each day there was a “prep list” posted by the owner/head chef. I’d easily work my way through chopping all the vegetables, but then I’d get to items like “Paleo BBQ Sauce” or “Mocha Chia Pudding.” I had no clue how to make these things. There were no written recipes. The managers simply made them by taste. I’d try asking one of the managers how to make it, but I would be blown off and told to do something else. I finally reached a point where I wasn’t learning anything new and no one would take the time to teach me. The worst was when they would give me a chance, but my only instruction was to “use intuition.” How could I use intuition to make something I never had before?! Whenever I took the plunge and tried, I’d mess up and get scolded anyway. There was no way to succeed.

I was also tired of living in poverty! I was barely making above minimum wage and only getting 30 hours/week when I was promised 40. The only thing that kept me from losing money at this job was that I got endless free food! I no longer had to buy groceries, so that was an extra $350 in my pocket each month. Otherwise, it was a drag not being able to put much in savings and also never seeing my friends. My days off were Wednesdays and Thursdays, but they obviously have to work those days. Plus, being on my feet all day was exhausting, so I rarely wanted to hang out after work. I felt like a hermit. I didn’t even cook at home anymore. My passion was dead.

I took a long look at my situation and realized I wasn’t happy. I know new jobs have an adjustment period, but things weren’t getting better. They were getting worse. There was a sense of hostility and blame in the kitchen. A few of my coworkers already had quit and others were looking for new jobs. I wasn’t happy. I wasn’t fulfilled. So I quit.

What Now?

I don’t regret taking the job in the kitchen. I don’t feel like I failed. It was a learning experience and I learned that it’s not the job for me. If I hadn’t put myself out there and tried, I would have always wondered, “what if…?” and that’s never a good way to live life! Being a Type A perfectionist, I’m inherently afraid of failure. But look at me now! It didn’t work out and I survived anyway. I hope to use this courage as I go forth.

I’m going to continue applying to jobs, likely in the administration/office management field since that’s where I have experience and can get a decent salary, but I’m not in a rush. I felt pressured to find a great job that offered healthcare before I turned 26, but it didn’t happen. I had to buy it from the marketplace despite my fears of doing so, but it turned out okay. Now I have no pressure or deadline to find a job. I can be as picky as I want to be!

If I am still unemployed in September, I’ll fly out to New Orleans and meet my parents for their train trip to San Antonio. It’s been awhile since I’ve been on the rails! Of course, if I find a great job before then, I’ll have to stay in Portland to work, but either way its a win-win situation.

In the meantime, I am focusing my energy on fitness and nutrition. During my trip I gained a whopping 20lbs (looking back on the Italian pastries, New Zealand ice cream, and Greek cocktails, its no surprise!) and it took awhile for me to come to terms with that. But you know what? It’s OKAY. This was a trip of a lifetime. I’m glad I got to indulge. I lost a lot of weight last fall and I know I can do it again.

I’ll update when I find a new job! I only have 3 requirements: adequate pay, a commute of 10 minutes or less, and not a start-up!


Travel Destinations: Ranked

As a suggestion from my most loyal reader (my dad!), I’ve decided to compare all of the places I visited and rank them from my favorite to least favorite.

But since it’s been awhile, here’s a short recap of each place I visited:


I never intended to visit the islands, but having a two week layover on Oahu was the cheapest flight option. I had visited Oahu as a child, but it was nothing like I remembered! I escaped the chaotic tourism of Honolulu and stayed on the North Shore. I spent my days hiking, swimming, and enjoying the incredible mountains. At the time, the muddy hikes totally intimidated me, but looking back at the photos, it was so worth it. Definitely the most beautiful place I’ve ever been. The food was also incredible. From poke bowls to fresh papaya and huli huli chicken – the food was unique and so tasty. The islander pride also created a colorful cultural experience. The only downside was that it rained for an entire week and I was trapped inside!

Beauty: 5/5
Food: 4/5
Culture: 5/5

New Zealand

I spent the most time in this country and I love it dearly, but it was very similar to America. I hiked, swam, saw waterfalls, boated on a lake, went kayaking, and went off-roading! New Zealand really is the land of adventure and the landscape is so diverse and gorgeous. The food has a strong focus on local, healthy, and sustainable, but there aren’t any unique local delicacies like other countries have. The locals were incredibly kind and welcoming and the history of the Maori culture was interesting.

Beauty: 5/5
Food: 4/5
Culture: 4/5


I was only here for a day, but it was a whirlwind! The country is a modern metropolis that shocked me with its extravagance. I walked 15 miles and still felt like I barely scratched the surface. It’s a small city, but so dense with culture. It’s more of a mixing pot than America! The food was a disappointment. With so many cultures, there are so many options, but nothing stood out as amazing.

Beauty: 3/5
Food: 2/5
Culture: 3/5


When I arrived in Vietnam, I was intimidated. Hanoi is not a beautiful city! It looks dilapidated and run down, but once I got to the country, the landscape was stunning. The real star of the trip was the food! From Bun Cha to street meat – everything was incredible. Probably the best food of the trip! We learned a little bit about Vietnamese history and culture, but it was such a touristy spot, it was hard to feel immersed.

Beauty: 2/5
Food: 5/5
Culture: 4/5


Oh boy. Most of my memories of Italy make me cringe. All of the locals I encountered were rude, flaky, and scatterbrained. The food was lackluster. The cities had plenty of beautiful architecture, but were dirty, crowded, and unpleasant. If I went to Italy and stayed in hotels, went to fancy restaurants, and had a tour guide, it would have been a much better experience. Italy on a budget is just not fun.

Beauty: 1/5
Food: 0/5
Culture: 2/5


I really enjoyed Thessaloniki, Athens, and Santorini. Mykonos was a bit less exciting than the other locations, but was still as interesting and beautiful. All of the white houses, winding alleys, and gorgeous cliffs are different from anything else I’ve ever seen. And the sunsets were perfect! The food was great at the beginning, but it becomes monotonous since most restaurants serve the same Greek specialties. The Greek culture was evident in their food and slow service, but otherwise it felt like any other island.

Beauty: 4/5
Food: 4/5
Culture: 3/5



I expected more from a popular Scandinavian capital. It didn’t feel like Europe but it didn’t feel like Scandinavia, either. It just felt like a regular, concrete city. I don’t think I saw a single thing I would classify as “beautiful.” The food was expensive and mediocre, but I appreciate how they have so many paleo options and salad bars. I didn’t see an ounce of local culture other than going to Christiania, the commune that rejects the Danish government.

Beauty: 1/5
Food: 2/5
Culture: 1/5

The Netherlands

Maybe I’m biased, but I love this country! Even having already explored Amsterdam for a week in 2017, I never got bored during my second visit. The canals are dreamlike and seeing the blossoming tulips was unreal. Utrecht was like a mini-Amsterdam but with more hipster inhabitants. Rotterdam was the only letdown, but only because it lacked the historical buildings and canals. The food all over the country was fresh, local, and delicious. I love Dutch culture – the bikes, the environmental concern, and the friendliness!

Beauty: 5/5
Food: 4/5
Culture: 4/5


I was pretty burnt out by the end of my trip, but meeting an amazing host in Antwerp and two hostel friends in Brussels really made the experience better. However, the country just didn’t impress me. Antwerp only had one impressive cathedral and Brussels only had the Grand Place. Bruges was very pretty, but didn’t offer anything to do for more than a day. The food was extremely bland – the only saving grace was the beer! Who can pass up authentic Belgian beer? The culture is a mix of Dutch and French with the country split between speaking either language. If you didn’t tell me I was in Belgium, I’d have no clue. There’s no distinguishing culture.

Beauty: 1/5
Food: 3/5
Culture: 1/5


I’ve been to Paris before and it is stunning, but this time I only went to Northern France, so my review reflects that. Le Havre and Caen are unremarkable cities. Bayeux was the only city that impressed me with its architecture. The beaches were stunning, as well. The food in France was terrible and the difficulty in ordering and paying was even worse! On top of it all, French culture lived up to the stereotype: rude and smelly, but full of history.

Beauty: 2/5
Food: 0/5
Culture: 1/5

I took the ratings into consideration, but ultimately went with my heart to rank them. So here it is! The final list of the favorite countries I visited:

1. New Zealand
2. Hawaii
3. Netherlands
4. Greece
5. Vietnam
6. Singapore
7. Belgium
8. Copenhagen
9. France
10. Italy

Overall, it was a great trip with so many diverse places. I’m still surprised I completed it! I was so close to giving up and flying home after I was sick the entire 14 hour flight to Italy. But I’m glad I didn’t. As with everything, the trip had its ups and downs and I powered through.

I feel a bit silly listing Hawaii so high. Why did I have to travel so far when one of the top places is so close? But the mix of stunning landscape, unique and delicious food, and immersive culture distinct from America made it top the list. If I didn’t know Hawaii was in the US, I’d never guess. The trick is getting away from Honolulu and to the more relaxed and remote areas of the island. If I had only stayed in Honolulu, then I’d definitely rank Hawaii much lower.

New Zealand is a no brainer for #1. It has it all – volcanoes, glaciers, jungles, beaches, mountains, rolling green hills, caves, and the bluest lakes I’ve seen in my life! Visiting New Zealand for only a couple weeks and only seeing a few places or staying on only one island is a major mistake. I almost made that mistake last fall! Thankfully I realized there was no way to get to all the places worth seeing in such a short amount of time. That’s honestly what inspired this trip! I wondered when I’d be able to go on an extended vacation and the reality of having a career and only getting a limited number of days off hit me. I knew I’d have to go during a time when I wasn’t working… and that would be easiest while I’m still on my parents healthcare and I’m not dependent on a job for coverage. The trip came together so quickly, but with perfect timing.

So now what? I’m back in Portland and reestablishing my routine. I technically don’t have to get a job by a certain deadline, but I do have to get my own health insurance by the end of July, so having a job would certainly help cover part of that. Right now I am taking it day by day. My plan is to enjoy unemployment for as long as it’s enjoyable. Im an active person, so I know I’ll get bored sooner or later. When that day comes, I’ll take it as a sign to start finding a job! Hopefully that’s something in the food/fitness/health realm, but I’m open to whatever brings me joy.

New York City, NY

Returning to America felt a little strange. On one hand, I was finally back in my home country! It felt comforting to speak the native language and know the cultural norms. But on the other hand, I had never been to NYC as an adult, so it felt like a new adventure. I still felt like a tourist!

I landed at JFK at 9pm and had to wait forever for my checked luggage. I debated taking public transit into the city, but it would have required 3 different trains! I decided to splurge and take a Lyft (like a taxi but shared between multiple passengers.)

I rode into Manhattan with one other couple. We didn’t talk much, but I had to listen to them bicker about what to eat for dinner. The ride took around an hour, so I got an earful!

Katrina welcomed me to her apartment and it fit the stereotype of “NY shoebox apartment.” It was a tiny studio that was just big enough to fit her bed and a couch. But it was cute and in an amazing location in the Upper West Side. Before coming to NY, the boroughs were all a blur to me, but now they at least make a bit of sense!

On my first day, I explored midtown on foot. I walked through Central Park and saw Times Square. I never realized how massive the city is!

I stopped by several dessert shops that are famous on Instagram and I had been dying to try! The first was Magnolia Bakery. They make a bit of everything but their banana pudding is famous. I ordered a small cup and it was actually pretty average. Definitely a disappointment.

I ended up walking 10 miles and treated myself to a chocolate chip peanut butter cookie from Levain Bakery. It was absolute heaven!!

The next day, Katrina had to work again so I headed further south and explored Chelsea and Tribeca and Lower Manhattan. I walked along the Highline which is a park built on an old subway line above the city. It was nice but filled with tourists!

I kept walking and saw the Wall St charging bull and the 9/11 memorial. The memorial was very well done. There are two large fountains built in the footprints of the two towers. The victims names are engraved along the edges of the fountain. The staff even place a rose next to each name on their birthday.

In the evening, Katrina and I met up with my friend Lauren who I met during study abroad in Jordan. We ate at Russ and Daughters and I finally had a bagel and lox!

We spent the night visiting different bars and speakeasys. New York is expensive! Almost every cocktail was $15 and we even went to one bar that had a $700 cocktail!

In the morning, we went to CoffeeCon in Williamsburg. For $15, we got unlimited coffee from different roasters. And snacks! It was fun, but soon we felt so caffeinated and sick. We walked around Williamsburg and it definitely lived up to its hipster reputation. I liked how small and casual it felt. The rest of New York feels so massive and stuffy.

Afterward, we went to Madison Square Eats and got tacos. I was surprised how long it takes to get around. We had to take 3 different trains to get to Williamsburg and it took over an hour! Katrina said that most people never leave their borough and stay in their bubble. I see why!

On my final morning, I took it easy and hung out in the park with Katrina and her dog Tessa. It was nice to catch up with them. Being an introvert, I find it difficult to spend all day around people, but living with Katrina in her studio didn’t bother me. I’m getting better at not getting stressed out over small stuff! As a treat on my final day, I got an “Everything Donut” and it was so good! It’s supposed to mimic an everything bagel. I was skeptical, but the flavors were amazing.

My flight wasn’t until 6:30, so I decided to leave Katrina’s apartment at 4pm. I checked the traffic and it said it would take 1.5 hours to get to the airport! Taking public transit would take longer. I immediately called a Lyft and sat for 90 minutes in traffic.

My flight started boarding at 5:37 and I arrived at the airport at 5:25. Luckily there were no lines to check my bag (since it was so late, she said it probably wouldn’t make the flight, but it did!) and I have TSA precheck so I could skip the security line.

The flight to Portland was 6 hours. So long! But I made it and I am so glad to be home. I finally unpacked and now I’m working on getting my car insurance reinstated and my car battery jumped. I’m still going to wait 2-3 weeks and enjoy the freedom before looking to see what jobs are out there. It’s so rare that you have time to not work, so I want to enjoy it!

Bayeux & D-Day Sites, France

Although I stayed in Caen, I didn’t spend any time exploring it. I arrived in the evening and my host picked me up. His name was Olivier and he worked as a sound engineer. His job took him all over the world! Unlike most French people I met, he actually spoke English! We went to his apartment and it was actually very clean and well decorated. My last Couchsurfing experience ended up being a great one! His apartment was gorgeous!

Olivier had to work a lot, so we didn’t get much time to chat. He did help me figure out how to see the D Day beaches, though. I always want to do everything on a budget, so I didn’t want to spend nearly $100 on a tour. Olivier said there are busses that go to the beach but they take hours and are unreliable. He said a tour was the only way. I sucked it up and booked a tour for the following morning. The only downside was that they all left from the city of Bayeux. I had to buy train tickets for the 20 minute ride from Caen to Bayeux before meeting my guide.

I arrived in Bayeux with 2 hours to kill before the tour. I walked around the Medieval town and it was like a fairytale. It gave Amsterdam and Bruges a run for their money!

I found a little cafe with a prime view of the cathedral and enjoyed a coffee. Bayeux was certainly a tourist town. I felt like the only foreigner in Le Havre and Caen, but Bayeux barely had anyone who wasn’t speaking English! I missed the cheap coffee in Italy. I got two tiny cups of black coffee and it was 6€!

I met my tour group in the afternoon. I had booked the “Half Day American Sites” tour through a company called Bayeux Shuttles. All of the other tourists were Americans. It felt nice being around others with the same accent as me!

Our first site was Pointe Du Hoc. It’s a tall promontory halfway between Utah Beach and Omaha Beach. The Germans had six guns located there that could easily defend both beaches. Leading up to D Day, the Allies heavily bombed Pointe Du Hoc to try to destroy the guns. Only one was successfully destroyed, but the Allies had no way of knowing. Reconnaissance photos showed all six guns still in position. The rest of the “apple orchard” story is extremely interesting and it’s worth a google search to read!

The most interesting thing was how the ground still had the scars of the bombs. There were deep holes everywhere. Our guide joked that it looked like Swiss cheese from above.

Another interesting part was getting to go inside the German bunker. On D Day, the weather was extremely foggy and rainy which made visibility low. The tiny sliver of window made it even more difficult to see the rangers, nonetheless shoot at them!

Our next stop was Omaha Beach. I honestly didn’t know what to expect. The only scenes I had seen were in Saving Private Ryan and a My Chemical Romance music video. Our guide warned us that before the war, Omaha Beach was a popular holiday destination for locals. After the war, it reverted to the same thing, so there may be people sunbathing and picnicking.

When we arrived, there were only a few other tour groups on the beach. It was low tide, so there was a wide area of sandy beach exposed. During high tide, the water goes all the way up to the road lined with beach houses. The Germans had put many obstacles in the water like Czech Hedgehogs and Rommel’s Asparagus. During high tide, they are invisible and dangerous, but at low tide, they can be dismantled and avoided. There were a special team of engineers whose only job on D Day was to move the obstacles to clear a path for tanks.

The memorial on the beach was very tasteful. A small monument and plaque were near the enclosure that housed an original gun that was used on D Day.

We had time to wander the beach. I collected a shell that I want to take home. It would have been nice to bring back sand but I didn’t have a jar. I wondered what life would be like if D Day had been unsuccessful and the Allies lost. Would my trip have even been possible? Would all of the countries I visited simply have been Germany?

Our final stop was the American Cemetery. It is an expansive memorial to all of the lives lost. There are countless rows of headstones and it is a shocking visual. Most of the markers are white crosses, but there are a little over 100 Stars of David. This is quite a low number considering the several thousand of casualties. Our tour guide explained that many servicemen chose to omit their religion from their dog tags. If they had been captured by the Germans, it would have been a much worse fate to be labeled as a Jew than a Christian.

The entire day was filled with history. It was one of the best tours I went on and I am glad to have been able to see the beaches of Normandy. It’s still unsettling to think that such a gruesome situation happened on a now-picturesque beach.

I traveled back to Caen and my host messaged me saying he was with friends for the evening. I had the apartment to myself and relaxed while downloading new books to my kindle.

I had to wake up early the next morning to catch my ride to the airport. I used BlaBlaCar to carpool the 4 hours to Charles de Gaulle. If I had taken the train, it would have been almost $100! I paid $20.

Unfortunately my BlaBlaCar was 45 minutes late, so I spent quite a long time watching the morning unfold from the sidewalk. It’s always funny to see how the basics of life (going to work, walking the dog) are the same no matter where you go.

My flight to JFK was one of the best. I flew XL France which is a budget airline. The seats didn’t have personal TVs and you had to pay for any snacks other than the hot meal, but neither of those bothered me. Luckily no one sat next to me so I could lay down.

I spent 3 hours reading and then the remaining 4 sleeping. I arrived at JFK around 9pm, but my body thought it was 4am France time. I found my way to the Upper West Side where I’ll be staying for the next 5 days. Instead of Couchsurfing, I’m staying with Katrina, my roommate in Denver during junior and senior year of college. I’m excited to continue being a tourist in my own country!

Le Havre, France

Just when I think everything is running smoothly, it all explodes! But that’s life, right? Nothing ever stays predictable – and if it did, how boring would that be?

On the day I was supposed to be traveling from Brussels to France, I realized I didn’t have my host’s address. I had booked a BlaBlaCar and asked for the address, but my host only told me the neighborhood, not the actual street or number.

I had 4 hours before I had to leave Brussels, but once I did, I wouldn’t have WiFi or cell service. I needed to know the address ASAP to tell my driver where to go. I messaged my host, assuming she would reply quickly, but she never did. I explained the situation and sent an additional message asking for the address. Nothing. Thirty minutes before leaving Brussels, I had no choice but to book a last minute hotel. Well, my other choice was to arrive in Le Havre and find WiFi and hope she would reply, but I was already stressed and exhausted so I chose to spend the money for a guaranteed private room.

I met my BlaBlaCar and it was so much different than the first one! This one was a brand new car and had ample room in the backseat. I was riding with a middle aged French woman and her sister. There was one other traveler – a student from Le Havre. When he found out I was just traveling for fun, he asked why I picked Le Havre.

Why DID I pick it? When I was planning, I knew I didn’t want to see Paris again. Anything south or west of Paris was too far to do in my limited time. I always regretted not seeing the D-Day beaches the last time I was in France, so I decided to head to the coast to do that.

When researching cities in northern France, I came across Le Havre. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its architecture. The city was heavily bombed during WWII and had to be rebuilt. Timber was scarce and stone was impossible to transport due to the damaged infrastructure. The only option was concrete. Auguste Perret gained fame from designing the concrete buildings of Le Havre. He was a tutor to the father of contemporary architecture, Le Corbusier.

Plus, the BlaBlaCar options from Brussels to northern France were few and far between. Taking the train would have been more expensive and quicker, but the French rail system has a series of scheduled strikes throughout summer and one of them fell on the exact date I needed to leave Brussels. Driving to Le Havre was the only way out of Belgium! The drive was long. We hit traffic and were delayed an hour. Neither of the sisters spoke English, so it was a quiet ride. I ended up watching two documentaries I had downloaded on my Netflix app. Each time I looked up from my screen, I was greeted by the gorgeous French countryside.

I was surprised how much open space there was. Farmland stretched on as far as the eye could see. I felt the same way about the Netherlands and Belgium. For being fairly populous, Europe certainly doesn’t have the same sub/urban sprawl issues America does.

I arrived at my hotel and was pleasantly surprised. It was one of the cheapest options at $50 per night. It was located downtown but wasn’t a traditional hotel with a lobby and numerous rooms. It was more of a guesthouse with an open terrace. My room had its own kitchenette but I had to rent plates, pans, utensils, and a kettle from the front desk (which closed at 10pm, right after I checked in) so I ended up eating cold salad out of my own Tupperware instead.

I got a very good night’s sleep! I slept in and checked out around noon. Since there wasn’t a kettle or even a mug, I couldn’t make my morning coffee. The hotel held my bag while I ventured out for the day.

It was Monday, which meant many shops and cafes were closed. I’m not sure why, but I guess it is part of their weekend. Every country has different non-working days, so it’s hard to keep up! I spotted a cafe with several people sitting outside.

Le Havre is the second largest port in France and several cruise ships dock there. I assumed since this cafe was in the main square, they frequently dealt with tourists and spoke some English. Nope. Not at all. Ordering a coffee at this cafe was one of the most difficult behind Italy where it was always a mystery if I was allowed to sit down to drink my coffee without getting charged extra.

I walked into the cafe and took at seat. There wasn’t a bar or anywhere to order, so I assumed it was table service. Other people were eating food, so it seemed like a good guess. I waited. And waited. And waited. Finally another couple walked in and sat down. I was waiting to see how they ordered so I could follow along. Imagine my surprise when they yelled their order at the barista from their table! I waited to see if this was really how to order. Surely enough, an old man walked in and barked “CAPPUCCINO!” in the direction of the kitchen and soon one appeared for him. Before I had to do it myself, the busboy saw my confusion and asked (in French) what I wanted. I replied with a simple “Americano?” and he didn’t understand. He had to get someone else who asked me the same question. I feel like I’ve said this about many countries, but France really doesn’t speak a lot of English! Luckily I learned this the hard way when I visited Paris, so I was prepared, but it’s still tough when all I wanted was an Americano and had to endure the entire cafe giggling at the language barrier.

After coffee, I explored Le Havre. It was a chilly, overcast day and that added to the ominous ghost town feel. There were plenty of people walking the streets, but almost all of the businesses were closed. Where were they going?!

I walked to the harbor where there was a large art installation. New Zealand is famous for using shipping containers to build malls and restaurants, but Le Havre built art with them!

I continued along the harbor, but it was bleak and windy. I spotted the famous landmark cathedral of the Saint Joseph Church in the distance. It was also built out of concrete and looks like a NYC skyscraper from the outside, but inside it is a spectacular stained glass masterpiece.

I continued my walk back toward my hotel. I was getting hungry and wanted to find a grocery store. I wasn’t about to endure another English-French showdown. As I walked, I found a beautiful park in the middle of the city. Europe really appreciates having green spaces. It’s unfortunate that most of America’s parks are hard to enjoy due to the homeless population who have been forced to live there.

As I walked, I realized I was disappointed by Le Havre. I can appreciate the history of the city and see how the architecture was new and unique at the time it was built, but in the present day, it’s nothing special. If anything, it’s drab and depressing.

Thankfully I only scheduled myself one day in Le Havre before heading west to Caen! Why Caen? Again, it all came down to transportation! I wanted a direct ride from a city in the north to CDG airport in Paris. I didn’t want to stay in Paris since it’s so expensive and I likely wouldn’t find a host. Caen was the only city that was near the beaches and had a BlaBlaCar going directly to the airport.

One thing that’s changed during my travels is my tolerance of transportation. I used to think it was fun to figure out a bus schedule and get somewhere only using public transit. But now, I have realized that hauling my backpack on a bus or train is NOT fun. There’s no where to put it and people get upset since it takes up so much space. I’m thankful I discovered BlaBlaCar because it’s taken the stress out of traveling between cities. Plus if I’m lucky, they drop me off exactly at my hotel or host’s house!

Brussels & Bruges, Belgium

I arrived in Brussels in a bad mood. I was stressed from trying and failing to find a new host. I was irritated by having to spend money on a hostel. And I was exhausted from hauling my 40lb backpack around in the 85 degree heat. I had to walk a mile to the Antwerp station and then walk 2 miles from the Brussels station to my hostel. The walk in Brussels wasn’t great. It was through a fairly sketchy neighborhood that even had its own res light district. The entire time, I was preparing myself for the typical hostel experience: a stinky room, a messy kitchen, and dirty everything.

But I was pleasantly surprised. I was staying at the Train Hostel in the Schaerbeek neighborhood. Despite it being the cheapest option, it had high reviews and I was shocked when I checked in. The dorm room was spacious and I even got the coveted bottom bunk! Each room had its own bathroom with clean slate tile and modern stainless steel fixtures. It felt brand new!

I chalked the day up to a “de-stressing day” and sat in the quiet courtyard and caught up on reading. I enjoyed the free coffee and even made dinner in the spotless, non-crowded kitchen. It felt like I had a private guest house since no one was around!

In the evening, I was relaxing in my bunk when a new girl named Esther checked into the room. She introduced herself and we got to chatting. We hit it off and ended up leaving the hostel to explore the area together. She explained she was from England but living in Paris. Her friend Valerie was living in Luxembourg but they planned to meet in Brussels for the weekend.

Esther asked me what I had planned for the next day and I explained Ascension Day in Bruges. The Christian holiday is a big deal in the Belgian town of Bruges and a massive parade carrying the holy blood travels around the city. In addition to Bruges being a UNESCO Heritage City, the parade is considered a UNESCO Heritage Event!

Esther expressed interest and asked if they could join me and of course I said yes! Valerie arrived late in the night, so I met her the next morning and she was great.

Sleeping in the dorm was surprisingly good, too. Even though it was an all female room, there was one light snorer. But the bed was comfortable and it wasn’t too hot or cold. Overall, this was the best hostel I’d ever stayed at!

In the morning, the three of us headed to the train station to take the hour train to Bruges. We arrived to a massive crowd walking toward the city center. I guess we weren’t the only ones who wanted to see the parade!

I was also eager to see Bruges after the recommendation from the pilot in Amsterdam. If you remember my trip there in 2017, I met a pilot at dinner who highly recommended I see Bruges. I couldn’t go during that trip, but I made it a priority to see it during this one.

Bruges definitely didn’t disappoint. It’s known as the “Forgotten City” because the rest of Belgium progressed and modernized while Bruges stayed historically preserved. It has gorgeous canals like Amsterdam feels even more quaint.

We wandered the streets and felt the excitement in the air. Holidays always feel different than normal days. It’s like everything is buzzing with anticipation and energy.

We made our way to the town square and waited along the parade route. We didn’t know when it was set to start, but everyone else was waiting, too. We stood there like sheep for 45 minutes before it started to rain. We could hear drums in the distance and decided to go investigate. It turned out we were waiting at the very end of the parade route and wouldn’t have seen the parade for another hour or two! Luckily we intercepted it on a different street near the beginning of the route.

It was a bit hard to see, but it was definitely interesting. I’m not sure of the reasoning behind it, but it seemed like different groups of people were represented by costumes. First the religious clergymen, then the wealthy men on horses, then the jesters and paupers, then a large singing chorus and band, and finally the holy blood. There were even some parade floats depicting rocks and castles!

It would have been interesting to have explanation behind each section, but I just enjoyed watching it. To have such a massive parade in a small town really is a cultural sight to behold!

We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring Bruges. Luckily the weather cleared so we window shopped. I was amazed by the number of chocolate shops! There were at least 5 on every street! Waffles were also a popular option. Every cafe sold them and they were even available from vending machines. I saw so many people walking around eating plain waffles.

We found a quaint park and sat in the sunshine talking about Portland and laughing about yoga. Then we explored a bit more and took some photos. Even though I had just met them, it felt like we had known each other for ages. After spending so much of my trip solo or having awkward conversations with hosts, it’s ironic I find an easy connection in one of the last cities I visit. Funny how life works, huh?

The next morning we woke up and made breakfast together. They asked if I wanted to come with them to explore downtown Brussels and I happily agreed.

Even though I’ve been Couchsurfing and meeting hosts during this entire trip, I’ve secretly dreaded it. I’m an introverted person by nature, so meeting new people isn’t a fun task for me. I thought about what changed and why I suddenly enjoyed the company of these strangers. Even though Luigina in Antwerp was nice, I secretly preferred the hours she was away at work.

I think it is just a matter of finding the right personality match. Finding a romantic relationship takes several dates and having compatible traits, so why wouldn’t a platonic friendship be the same? You wouldn’t date any random person off of the street, so how could I be expected to be sudden friends with all of my hosts I met randomly? Especially when my hosts have typically been a bit older than me and with different interests. But with Esther and Valerie, we were all the same age and had a common interest in laid back travel.

I often clashed with my hosts because they wanted to go out and party, but Valerie and Esther shared my interest in casual coffee shop hangouts and relaxing in the park during the afternoon. I had finally found my people! I never realized how rare that was until now. It definitely makes me appreciate my friends in Portland.

I also forgot how nice it felt to laugh with friends. I enjoy my own company and often laugh at myself when I do something stupid, but sharing a silly moment with friends just feels good. I’m grateful I found that in Brussels.

We took the train downtown to the Comic Book Museum. I didn’t want to pay the 10€ to look at a bunch of comics, so I went to a cafe to work on my blogs while they went through the museum.

Afterward, we went to the Grand Place – the most famous square in Belgium. It was stunning! Each side of the square had buildings with golden facades. It felt like being in an outdoor palace.

We also saw the famous statue of a baby peeing! Legend has it that there was a fire in Brussels and it was extinguished by someone peeing on it. It’s incredible this silly, tiny statue garners so much attention. As always, I try to capture all of the tourists surrounding the point of interest!

We were eager to get out of the center of the city, so we took a bus south to the Bois de la Cambre Park. It was so big! There is a tiny island in the middle of the lake that is only accessible by boat. There’s even a bar on the island! We spent the afternoon drinking outside and laughing while they tried to name all 50 states.

We headed back to downtown Brussels to go to the most popular bar – Delirium. They’re famous for having over 2000 beers! I asked the bartender for one that tasted like caramel and he recommended a 10% beer for 4 euro. Such a steal.

Valerie and Esther had to leave early in the morning but I slept in. I was getting surprisingly good sleep in the hostel. No one was being rude or loud in the dorm room.

I spent my final day in Brussels on a trek to see the Atomium. It is a giant sculpture of an atom and you can go inside! I chose to admire it from afar and then enjoy the sunshine by walking around the nearby park and admiring the statues.

Unfortunately my hostel-luck ran out as I was kept awake for hours by loud people in the hostel. Our room faced the outdoor terrace so all of the noise came in through the window – but if we shut the window, it got extremely hot because there was no central air. A lose/lose situation!

In the morning, I packed my bags and headed to the train station to catch my carpool BlaBlaCar. It was going to be a 4-hour ride from Brussels to Le Havre, France, on the north coast. Luckily I downloaded movies!

Brussels was similar to Antwerp, but larger. I know I keep saying each city is diverse, but Brussels really takes the cake. It’s known as one of the main European capitals and it lives up to that reputation. Most cities I’ve been able to walk across, but Brussels is massive and, honestly, not that pretty! The parks and historical buildings are the only scenic gems. If you visit Belgium, definitely see Bruges, but spend minimal time in Brussels!

Antwerp, Belgium

I am a very analytical person. I love when data is clear cut and black-and-white. I don’t work well with grey area. Maybe that’s why I ended up majoring in geography. I love the definitive borders of countries and being able to point at a map and say “This side is the Netherlands and that side is Belgium.” But what does that mean? How can an imaginary line in the dirt separate two communities that are so similar?

I started to think of it in terms of Cincinnati, Ohio, vs Kentucky. Technically, I grew up in Kentucky because our house was physically on that side of the border. But what about culturally? Did I have more in common with the rural, agricultural, and conservative Kentuckians or the urban, hipster Cincinnatians? Definitely the Cincinnatians. That’s why my Dad always told me to specify I was from NORTHERN Kentucky – because our lifestyle was so much different from the rest of the state.

Antwerp was in the same situation. It was only 30 minutes away from the Netherlands border. The landscape was virtually identical and they even speak Flemish, which is actually just Dutch. Travelers are quick to assign differences to the two countries (eating stroopwaffels vs Belgian waffles) but they really are more similar than different. I was expecting a new experience crossing the border into Belgium, but actually it was more of the same – which is great because I love this region!

I arrived in Antwerp and met my host, Luigina. She is originally from Curacao which used to be another Dutch colony. Her flat was in the center of the city (and I later discovered it’s government housing!) and she was so warm and welcoming. You know the stereotype of the southern housewife in America? She was exactly that. Always offering me food and asking me about my day. We stayed up late watching our favorite channel – TLC – and laughing at all of the wedding shows.

In the morning, I signed up for a free Antwerp walking tour. There was an elderly couple also on the tour who were from Portland, Oregon! We talked about the city and my world journey. They were sweet and made several recommendations.

The tour was one of the more boring ones. It focused mostly on history which is interesting, but felt like being back in school. Tours in other cities usually blend history with modern stories and legends.

I did learn the reasoning behind the construction that seemed to plague the city – it’s an election year! So all major streets, plazas, and buildings are undergoing renovations. It’s frustrating that I can’t see it in all its glory, but I can’t help but be happy that cities are continually working to preserve things for future generations.

The biggest takeaway from the tour was that Antwerp used to be a giant merchant hub with a port more important than Rotterdam. Our tour guide also told us the unfortunate history of Belgium colonizing the Congo and using that venture to fund most of the development of Antwerp. He said that during his education, the Congo was glossed over and no one talked about the exploitation. Only recently are schools starting to openly address and value how the Congo allowed Antwerp to become what it is today.

After the tour, I wandered around on my own and realized the city is in three main areas: the old city, the fashion streets, and the diamond district.

Antwerp is a prime city for diamond shopping. I didn’t delve into the history behind the trade, but there were countless stores around the station. I also saw a large orthodox jewish population in the neighborhood around the station. The Antwerp train station is often noted as being one of the most beautiful in the world!

The fashion streets look identical to the Miracle Mile in Chicago. Store after store of expensive fashion lining the streets. It was fun to walk down, but not actually shop at.

The old city is where I was staying. It had gorgeous old cobblestone streets lined with quaint homes. The stunning cathedral acts as the centerpiece of the city and can be seen from virtually anywhere as its one of the few tall buildings in the city. I got to go to a rooftop and get a panorama view of the city. You easily see the low lying old city!

My two days in Antwerp were mostly spent wandering and relaxing. The city doesn’t have many tourist attractions so there wasn’t much to see. I hung out at several cafes and spent the evenings at home talking to my host. She works at a school and always had amusing stories to tell about the children.

On my final day, I spent the morning taking a long walk to the Port Authority building. It was designed by Zaha Hadid, the first woman to win the Pritzker Prize, which is the equivalent of the Novel Prize for architecture. She also designed the stadium in Qatar that will be used for the 2022 FIFA World Cup.

In the evening, another Couchsurfing guest arrived. My host was at work so I had to greet and entertain him. He was visiting from Poland. I’ve always wondered what it was like to be a host and it’s very strange! It’s hard to make someone feel at home. Unfortunately I was quite distracted as I had just found out my host in Brussels cancelled my stay. I had less than 12 hours to find a new host as I planned to leave Antwerp the following morning to head to Brussels. I spent the entire evening sending messages to hosts in Brussels asking if I could stay.

I woke up in the morning to discover I had no luck. Everyone was traveling out of town for the long weekend. Luigina even offered for me to stay another night, but I didn’t think I’d be able to find a host even if I waited a day. Locals simply weren’t in town. Plus I had nothing else to do in Antwerp and the thought of wasting a day sitting around sounded torturous. I booked the cheapest hostel I could find and headed to the train station.

Antwerp was interesting, but not somewhere I’d recommend people to visit. Unless you want to spend all your time at museums for the Red Star Line or the printing press, there isn’t much to do except drink Belgian beer!